A Cowl Necked Top

I purchased a lovely piece of wool knit from Fabric Mart sometime the end of last year and I finally had time to sew it up! I knew exactly what it was going to be. I'd been wanting to use Pam's spiral cowl neck tutorial (scroll down to the second post) for some time, but everything else kept getting in the way of it!

Don't mind the skirt under the top, that's the dress my dress form wears, since she has to live in the entryway, behind the front door. I didn't think it would be proper to let her be naked :( 

Close Up of the neck 

 As we go step by step in the making of this top, you'll see that I did cut the neckline lower, as Pam advised, but not low enough. I was worried that it might be very uncomfortable and then I'd have to take it out (didn't want to) but when I tried it on, the cowl around my neck was actually PERFECT! Not to tight, but close enough to me to keep me nice and warm. I found myself tucking my chin in there now and then when I got cold :) Ok here we go.

I used my favorite tunic pattern, which is really for a woven fabric, while this is a stretch knit. I thought it'd be ok, and it was.

I'd already adjust the bust darts, as the ones on the pattern were too high for this old granny! Lower those darts, sure sign of age! lol Just remark your bust point, and then draw lines from the existing dart lines as shown.

 

 

Sew the darts, running right off the fabric at the end point. Pull the bottom thread through to the back of the garment and tie your own knot. This eliminates bulk in that dart point, so it looks smoother at the end. We like smooth. 

Pin the shoulder seams, adding some clear elastic (because it's a knit) if it was a woven fabric, I'd have used some ribbon or twill tape. It gives strength to the shoulder seam. This would be my first time using the stretch stitch on my new sewing machine, so I was eager to see how it turned out. 

It was perfect! Combined with the elastic, it pulled and stretched without breaking any stitches. LOVE my new machine :) 

Ever had this happen to you? Seems no matter what you do, it can happen. no problem....

Fold your garment in half, so both sides are the same, and trim off enough of the back piece so the shoulder seams are even. 

Sew up the side seams...

I didn't sew all the way to the bottom of the top, but left these sides open

I'm also not finishing these seams, because it's a double knit and it's not going to ravel. Press the side seams open, and look at this ugly dart end!!! ugh...I don't want that in  my top! 

So, chop it off! And then give it a good pressing. 

After giving it a good press and steam, as soon as I could touch it (and it was still pretty warm) I smashed it down and held it till cool. This decreased the 'lump' be smashing all the fibers together. Yes, that is the technical term! And since it is wool, it will keep that shape until it dies. 

Since this is a doubleknit, it can be hard, if not impossible to tell your right side from your back side. So, unfold the sleeves from each other, opening them like a book. This ensures you'll have everything where it should be. Now, fold them back on each other and pin at the underarm seam. See those two white arrows? They point to my 1 notch, designating the front of of the sleeve. There is a difference between the front and back of the sleeve. You may not see it, but if you put your sleeves in backwards, you'll know it when you wear the garment. It just won't feel right! (if you click on this picture it will get bigger and you'll see my notches, er, cuts. 

Sew up the sleeve seam, and use your sleeve board to press that seam open. It makes it so much easier!!! 

Now, Pam says to lower the front neckline before attaching the cowl, which you can see I did, but not very much. This is where I 'thought' I screwed up by not cutting it deep enough. Turns out, it fits perfectly. But this is the way to lower your neckline. Fold the front together, ignoring all the other parts of the top, match the shoulder seams, make sure your front is laying flat with no wrinkles and meets properly at the bottom. Then trim off this piece, starting at the center fold, tapering to nothing at the shoulder seams. 

From here, I followed Pam's tutorial for the cowl, worked perfectly. I hemmed the bottom and it was done! (oh I hemmed the sleeves too)

This is a very simple top, quick and easy to make. I made it all on the sewing machine, no serger (I didn't want to change thread) and I love the way it looks and fits! I encourage you to try it out for yourself, and use Pam's tutorials, they are the best!

God Bless You!
Karen